Print-friendlyDoi Phuka National Park
Doi Phuka is northern Thailand's largest national park covering an area of 1,704 km2. It was designated on the 17th June 1999 and is named after the highest peak within the park, the 1,980 m high Doi Phukha. This large park covers parts of amphoes Thung Chang, Chiang Klang, Pua, Bo Kluea, Chakern Phra Kiat, Santi Suk and Mae Charim.
Although various websites and Royal Forest Department brochures mention caves it had not been visited by speleologists before our trip in March 2005. This brief reconnaissance only explored one cave, Tham Pha Phueng, but this was found to be a very significant pothole. Information on other caves, gleaned from the park headquarters, reforestation project headquarters, road signs and the internet, has been included in this report although the caves were not visited. The park has been split into three arbitrary sections to hopefully make the descriptions of the caves easier to follow.
Christen Goodden's book "Trek It Yourself In Northern Thailand" is the best guide to the area and is recommended. It even has a detailed description of Tham Pha Phueng, but this had escaped the attention of cavers before our visit.
Northern Section
At the Royal Forest Department reforestation project HQ just before the village of Ban Mani Ploek there are several displays of photos and information of nearby caves including Tham Pha Phueng, Tham Nam Dam and 4 other caves. This area is covered by L7017 series 1:50,000 maps 5247 I Amphoe Thung Chang and 5247 IV Ban Sakat Num. However, both of these maps have restricted availability and can not be bought. If arranged in advance accommodation is available at the project HQ.
Tham Pha Phueng ถ้ ำผาผึ้ง
47Q 0717319 2149726 Alt.: 1325 m (from map)
Length: 757 m + VR: 163 m surveyed plus an undescended pitch of approx. 150 m
This is an easy cave to find. Heading north out of Chiang Klang on H1080 a blue tourist sign (in English) directs you onto the H1291 on the right which steadily climbs up into the hills. This road has suffered from some large landslides and is probably not advisable in the wet season. Eventually you reach a five-way junction where you need to take the road on the left past the national park station. When you reach the reforestation project headquarters there is another sign, this time in Thai. The cave is about a kilometre from the headquarters in a doline just before you climb up to the Hmong village of Ban Mani Ploek. Park at the bottom of the doline and a short path follows the small stream to the large cave entrance which is at the base of a 50 m high cliff.
The cave descends steeply with a boulder floored passage 30m wide and 20 m high. A small inlet on the right about 50 m inside the entrance has not been explored. The passage stays big and impressive for about 300 m until it levels out and narrows into a rift. After 25 m the top of a 8 m pitch is reached. Descending the pitch drops you into a large streamway. Upstream has only been explored for about 50 m and not pushed to any conclusion. Downstream the passage follows a bedding plane descending at 12°. After 135 m a canyon inlet on the left has been explored for 50 m to an unclimbed pitch. The main passage continues to descend and after a further 200 m the stream flows over some gours and then drops down a very large pitch. Stones take six seconds to fall, hitting a couple of ledges on the way, and the pitch is estimated to be at least 150 m deep.
To the top of the big pitch the cave is 163 m deep which makes it the fifth deepest known cave in Thailand. However, including the undescended pitch the cave is approximately 310 m deep which would make it by far the deepest Thai cave. The resurgence is unknown. Tourist maps show a tributary to the Mae Nam Nan about 4 km to the west of the cave which is probably at an altitude of around 500 m which gives a depth potential in the region of 800 m. From the base of the 150 m pitch the cave could descend a further 500 m and there is a straight line distance of about 3.5 km to the valley.
Goodden (2000) describes a smaller doline not far from Tham Pha Phueng and about 100 m from Ban Mani Ploek. This was caused by the collapse of a cave roof and has dense and intertwined vegetation in it.
Tham Champi ถ้ ำจําปี
As with Tham Pha Phueng, driving north of Chiang Klang on the H1080 a blue tourist sign directs you up the H1291 to the east towards Tham Champi, Tham Nam Dam and Tham Pha Pheung.
At the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters there are several displays of photographs and information of nearby caves including Tham Nam Dam.
Tham Nam Dan ถ้ ำนํ้าดั้น
This is the third cave on the blue tourist sign seen while driving north of Chiang Klang on the H1080 which directs you up the H1291 towards the east. According to the sign it is 2 km before Tham Pha Phueng and is probably to the west of the village near the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters.
At the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters there are several displays of photographs and information of nearby caves including Tham Nam Dam.
Tham Nam Mudt ถ้ ำนํ้ามด
At the five-way junction on H1291, near the national park station, a sign indicates that Tham Nam Mudt, Tham Ho-Ying and Tham Ho-Yai are all along the road towards Ban Mani Ploek.
Tham Ho-Ying ถ้ ำหอหญิง
Other name: Tham Too Dee Gong 1 ถ้ำภูตกลอง 1
This cave is sing posted on the H1291, near the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters.
There are photographs from this cave in the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters.
Tham Ho-Yai ถ้ ำหอชาย
Other name: Tham Too Dee Gong 2 ถ้ำภูตกลอง 2
This cave is sing posted on the H1291, near the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters.
There are photographs from this cave in the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters.
Tham Too Lan ถ้ ำภูหัวล้าน
There are photographs from this cave in the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters.
Tham Pha Daeng ถ้ ำผาแดง
Approx. 47Q 0722600 2151000 (from map in NP HQ)
NB: the position on the map of Tham Pha Phueng is about 500 m different to the GPS co-ordinates for the entrance.
This is the best known cave in the national park and was used as a base by the communist insurgents up until 1982. The co-ordinates place it to the west of the H1081 between Bo Klua and Ngom Pao and the Berndtson & Berndtson tourist map shows a Ban Pha Daeng (a Yeo hill tribe village) at the end of a track. However, the route descriptions seen have all been from Ban Mani Ploek in the centre of the park and involve a very long walk.
Goodden (2000) gives a good description of the route. From Ban Mani Ploek drive along a 4WD track to Ban Saam Yaek. Goodden describes it as a trek, but a 4WD track continues for about 4.3 km to a three-way junction. From this junction Tham Pha Daeng is 4.4 km away along a path. Goodden says you will need a guide to find the cave and that a forest monk was living there on his last visit.
Dolines
The 1:50,000 maps which cover the national park, which can be seen at the park headquarters and the Royal Forest Department reforestation project headquarters, show several large dolines. Some of these are shown to have streams sinking in them. Three of these dolines are centred on 47Q 0717700 2139500, 47Q 0718600 2144700 and 47Q 07219100 2147300.
Central Section
The national park headquarters is located on the H1256 that goes east from Pua and through the mountains to Ban Bo Klua. There is a barrier across the road where you enter the park and foreigners are expected to pay 200 baht each, even though it is a public highway. In the park headquarters there is a 1:50,000 map covering the whole park and several caves are marked on it. However, when we later visited Tham Pha Phueng there was a difference of about 500 m between the GPS co-ordinates and the position marked on the map. There is basic accommodation available at the park headquarters, but there are few caves in this area.
Tham Pha Kong ถ้ ำผาฆ้อง
Approx. 47Q 0716300 2121500 (from map in NP HQ)
NB: the position on the map of Tham Pha Phueng is about 500 m different to the GPS co-ordinates for the entrance.
When driving up the H1256 east from Pua to the national park headquarters the road breaks out of the forest and runs along the top of a razor-back ridge. A road on the right leads steeply down to a village and the cave is probably somewhere near here. If you reach the turning (on the left) to Ban Toei or the barrier at the start of the national park you have gone too far.
Tham Lawng
Just before the barrier at the entrance to the park a road on the left leads to the village of Ban Toei which is spectacularly sited on a steep ridge. Going through the village you reach the Bamboo Huts guesthouse (where the concrete road stops). This is signed from the junction with the H1256. The huts are very basic, but only cost 100 baht a night and are a very peaceful place to stay. The owner of the guesthouse, William, is also a trekking guide and can lead you to three caves which are a six hour walk away into the jungle. In 2005 he charged 500 baht per day per person. Two of these caves are through trips under a ridge. According to Cummings, et. al. (2003) the longest of these caves is called Tham Lawng.
Southern Section
Tham Pha Kao ถ้ ำผาเก้า
Approx. 47Q 0719300 2106600 (from map in NP HQ)
NB: the position on the map of Tham Pha Phueng is about 500 m different to the GPS co-ordinates for the entrance.
This cave is located to the north of the H1081 about 6 km from of Ban Lak Lai when heading towards Ban Bo Klua.
Ban Nam Pun
47Q 0725000 2066000
This village (Lime Water Village) is located in the far south of the park. Although outside the southern edge of the Doi Phuka National Park we were informed that caves have been reported from here. From Mae Charim take the H1268 which goes to the Lao border and in Ban Nam Phang turn left onto the N1168 which heads north-east to end in the village of Ban Nam Pun.
Other Caves in Doi Phuka National Park
Tham Lod or Tham Nam Ook Roo
A National Park leaflet and websites also mentions a Tham Lod or Tham Nam Ook Roo, but this cave was not marked on the topographic map in the park HQ and its location is unknown. The cave is described as "...a natural phenomenon. The water inside the cave in the mountains, flows out across the caves to the outside" which would seem to indicate it is a resurgence cave with an accessible streamway.
Amphoe Muang
Tham Pha Tup Forest Park
47Q 0683188 2085286 Alt: 280 m (car park)
This forest park is to the west of the main road (H1080) north out of Nan town, not far past the airport. The name is also spelt Tham Pha Toob on some maps and signs. There are blue tourist signs, but they are misleading and we ended up on the wrong side of the hill. The main entrance to the park is amongst the buildings of the village. A dirt track and then a concrete track leads round the back of the hills and also give access to the park. In the park there are a couple of limestone hills which contain several small caves and shelters and there is a monastery. The Caves of Thailand and Cummings (1999) say that there are 17 caves in the park of which nine are easily located.
Tham Pha Tup ถ้ ำผาตูบ
Length: 50 m COT NA 4
As you climb the steps and then the path from the car park up onto the hill a track on the right leads to a small entrance. Once through the entrance a single passage, about 4 m wide and 6 m high with a few formations, leads to a meditation site. This cave is probably Tham Pha Tup.
Tham Pha Sawan
47Q 0682932 2085410
Length: 120 m COT NA 23
This is the longest cave in the park and its length was confirmed by pacing.
Other Caves in Tham Pha Tup Forest Park
Tham Bor Nam Thip (COT NA 6): "There's a ...wide hall within, cave hole allows the sunshine in and stalactites decorated around the cave. One side of it consisted of valley with oval shaped pool filled with water throughout the year. The water is believed to be holy water."
Tham Chedi Kaew (COT NA 21): "It's a small cave. The front of the cave has a stone like a chedi."
Tham Khon (COT NA 24): "It's long like a log. There are splendid stalactites inside the cave and there is a cliff at the entrance to the cave."
Tham Phra (COT NA 5):"It's a huge cave, large ground...hole exists on top of the cave. Entrance in other side of the hill allows wind and light access into the cave. Beautiful stalactites exist."
Amphoe Song Khwae
Tham Sakern National Park
Tham Sakern National Park is located in a remote part of northern Nan province close to the border with Phayao province and not far from Laos. The park covers an area of 448 km2. From Nan town take the H1080 north to Tha Wang Pha where you turn left onto the H1148 to Song Khwae. In Song Khwae take the H1097 which climbs up and over a mountain range before descending into the Ban Sakern valley. It is a two hour drive from Nan town to Ban Sakern. There are several limestone towers in the valley located to the north of the H1148. The park headquarters are about 6 km north of Ban Sakern along a dirt track which also passes the entrance to Tham Luang Sakern.
Tham Luang Sakern ถ้ ำหลวงสะเกิน
Main Entrance: 47Q 0662062 2142242 Alt.: 750 m
Swift Entrance: 47Q 0662038 2142166 Alt.: 819 m
Side Entrance: 47Q 0662041 2142282 Alt.: 806 m
Top Entrance: 47Q 0661982 2142455 Alt.: 850 m
Length: 600 m VR: 105 m COT PY 4
In the village take the track to the north towards the limestone outcrops and the park headquarters. The track leads past a temple with many chedis and there is a small wooden sign, in English, directing you to the cave. The main entrance is 20 m wide (not 200 m wide as claimed by Cummings) and can be seen from several kilometres away.
From the track a path leads steeply up the side of the hill and then contours around the base of the cliff to the entrance. Guano is mined in the cave and is removed from the main entrance using an aerial ropeway. The cave is home to many swifts and bats so the boulders are covered in droppings and feathers. From the main entrance the 40 to 50 m wide passage ascends up and round to the left to a second entrance. Near the main entrance a large horizontal passage to the right leads past a third entrance and then ascends steeply to end at a choke. A route up the choke leads to a small entrance between the boulders.
The cave ascends for over 100 m to make it one of the deepest known caves in Thailand.
Survey of Tham Luang Sakern
Other caves have been reported from the Tham Sakern National Park including Tham Pla Kang.
Amphoe Na Noi
The following two short caves are formed in a very isolated limestone outcrop, surrounded by a ‘desert’ of sandstone hills. They are located just before you reach the village of Ban Chatawan. From Nan town take the H101 south to Wiang Sa. In Wiang Sa turn right and follow the H1026 south to Na Noi where you turn right again onto the H1216. This road eventually degenerates into a narrow concrete surfaced track. Before then take a turning on the left and you will hopefully end up in Ban Chatawan. This is an obscure part of Thailand and several new roads are not marked on the maps.
There is a yellow sign on the right just before the village and by taking this turning you soon arrive at the monastery. The limestone outcrop is also unmistakable.
Tham Chatawan ถ้ ำเชตวัน
47Q 0667155 2020884 Alt.: 500 m
Length: 25 m VR: 2 m
A flight of concrete steps with nagas leads up to this cave which is a 20 m long rift to a Buddha. A concrete path leads for a few metres round the cliff to other shrines and a Buddha footprint.
Tham Chatawan Lower Cave
47Q 0667142 2020876 Alt.: 488 m
Length: 50 m VR: 12 m
Found just below the shrine cave this cave is a series of mud floored passages leading to a high rift passage. All ways on are choked.
Survey of Tham Chatawan
Sri Nan National Park
The Sri Nan National Park covers an area of 934 km2 in the south-eastern corner of Nan on the border with Uttaradit. It protects the valley of the Mae Nam Nan and its surrounding hills upstream of the large Sirikit Reservoir. From Nan town take the H101 south to Wiang Sa. In Wiang Sa turn right and follow the H1026 south to Na Noi where you turn left onto the H1083. At the top of the first hill there is a small park office and a track leading north to a viewpoint which has fine vistas over the Mae Nam Nan valley. Only one limestone outcrop was briefly visited. This is just outside the northern boundary of the park and is reached by continuing to follow the track past the vewpoint.
Sri Nan Cave 1
47Q 0693245 2032643 Alt.: 795 m
The small entrance to this cave was seen from the track heading north from the park office and viewpoint. It is located in the bottom of a small depression at the base of a limestone outcrop. It was not explored.
Sri Nan Cave 2
47Q 0691714 2033720 Alt.: 629 m
The track leads to an area that has been cleared of forest and is being intensively farmed. This area is outside the national park boundaries. This cave is a choked sink at the bottom of 1 km long limestone cliff to the west of the agricultural area to the north of the park office. It is choked with soil due to erosion caused by the farming.
In addition to the caves mentioned above farm workers informed us of another cave located to the east of, and uphill from, the farmed area. Staff at the national park office claimed there were caves within the park.
Other Caves in Nan Province
The blue tourist signs for the following caves were seen, but the caves were not visited or could not be found:
Tham Pha Luk – sign posted to the west of the H1148 near Na Nun Song, 5 km north of Tha Wang Pla
Tham Huai Puak – sign posted to the south of the H1162 at 47Q 0689801 2050017. We are sure that we were close to the cave, but couldn't find it despite asking for directions.
Tham Pha Wiang ถ้ ำผาฮาง XE "ถ้ ำผาฮาง" (COT NA 1)and Tham Ammarin – a blue tourist sign indicated that these caves were up a track to the northwest of the H1026 at 47Q 0681207 2041064. Clarac & Pagau-Clarac states "At km 18 from leaving [Wiang] Sa, near the village of Ban Pha Wiang, a track on the right leads in less than 3 km to a cavern composed of many chambers (Tham Pha Hang)." This information is repeated in Munier who says the cave is 18 km south of Wiang Sa and has several chambers. We drove 3.5 km along the track and ended up in an active limestone quarry, but couldn't find the caves. It would appear likely that the caves are close to the quarry, perhaps on the other side of the road. There is a police station at the start of the track where directions could probably be obtained. An internet reference also mentions a Tham Pha Mong near Tham Pha Wiang and that the access road is only 300 m long.
Nan References
Clarac, A. & Pagau-Clarac, H. (1985) [Tham Pha Wiang]; Cummings, J. (1999) [Tham Luang Sakern & Tham Pha Tup]; Cummings, et. al. (2003) [Tham Lawng, Doi Phuka NP]; Goodden (2000) [Tham Pha Phenug & Doi Phuka NP]; Munier, C. (1998) [Tham Pha Wiang]